May 14: Cows and Pirates on Lake Tanganyika

Cattle are still extremely important in Burundi, where Tutsis were traditionally herders, and Hutus, farmers

But Bujumbura consists of far more than its colonial heritage. It is
surrounded by acres of informally-built housing, which have grown enormously as people have come to take refuge in the city from violence in the hills.

The fall I was there, many Tutsis—the traditional herders--who owned cattle were bringing them down from the hills because of the trouble. Among them was Francine’s husband, and he wanted to show me his cows. He met us late one morning and drove us in their white SUV to where the animals were being sheltered in corrals made from unmilled logs down by the lake. Traditionally all women and cows were said to belong to the king, but the land belonged to the cows. Today cattle are still very important, even among well-educated city dwellers: Alain’s pride in his herd was readily apparent.

The city was quiet all the time I was there, but everyone was on edge. My plan had been to stay in Bujumbura for several days and then take a ferry down Lake Tanganyika to Kigome where the trans-Tanzania railroad ends near Jane Goodall’s chimpanzee reserve. But pirates had attacked the ferry shortly before, so it was no longer running, and even if had been, it wasn’t a trip I should take by myself, I was told. I’d do well to think of another plan.

Photo: Cattle are still extremely important in Burundi, where Tutsis were traditionally herders, and Hutus, farmers